PEAKLIFE

By Radhika Agrawal

Winning the prestigious Wine Spectator’s Award for Excellence is no easy task. But the team at The Table makes it look like a piece of cake. As it receives this year’s Wine Spectator’s Award for Excellence for the fifth year in a row, the Mumbai restaurant has established itself as a true trailblazer in the realm of fine dining and wine appreciation. We caught up with Gauri Devidayal, Co-Founder of the Food Matters Group and Akshay Magar, Sommelier at The Table, to find out more about this spectacular victory, their vision, and more.

As someone who didn’t have much experience in the hospitality industry prior to launching The Table, what was it like to enter the restaurant industry as an entrepreneur?

Gauri Devidayal, Co-Founder, Food Matters Group

Gauri Devidayal: It was a very steep learning curve. Not having any background in hospitality was a double-edged sword—it allowed us to come with a completely fresh perspective without any bias from either formal training or prior experience, but at the same time it was an intense learning process. We had a blank slate to set a new benchmark and not be compared to anything we had done previously. It was also my first time as an entrepreneur, being responsible for every single aspect of the business, unlike my previous role as an accountant with the Big Four firms. The buck stops with you and that brings with it its own pressures.

What are some of the challenges you faced along the way and what are some achievements you’re proud of?

Gauri Devidayal: The challenges are too many to list! Everything was a new challenge, considering both Jay, my husband and business partner, were new to the industry. First and foremost was figuring out a balance in our private and professional relationship so that the business didn’t fail before it had even begun! In terms of the business itself, we were trying to introduce a lot of new ideas to the dining culture of Mumbai, which meant being very patient. For instance, the community style dining, the cuisine agnostic ingredient driven menu, the idea of small and large plates, served family style, was all a bit alien in the world of casual fine dining in the city. That waiting game to win people over comes at a huge financial cost, which one has to be prepared for. Internally, of course, team management, guest management, bureaucracy, things not going to plan, running a 24/7 business, and dealing with criticism and feedback were all part of the learning process.

Now, as The Table receives the Wine Spectator’s Award for Excellence for the 5th time in a row, how do you feel?

Gauri Devidayal: I’m so incredibly proud of the team. Continuing to receive accolades and be relevant in our 13th year of operations is no mean feat. Being the only standalone restaurant in India, and one of only four to make it to the list from the country, is definitely something to be proud of. From the very beginning, we have tried to make wines accessible to our guests, whether it’s through our half glass program, having an extensive wine by glass option, including the Coravin selection which allows us to open premium bottles by the glass for our guests, and also focusing on both team and guest education through internal training and our Vinopedia program. I am personally WSET Level 3 certified, which is the globally recognised international certification for wines and spirits. I undertook this to make more informed choices for the restaurant’s wine program and I’m really proud to say that we have three others in our front of house team who are at least WSET Level 2 certified, if not higher.

Tell us a little bit about the wine program at The Table and what sets it apart from the rest.

Akshay Magar, Sommelier, The Table

Akshay Magar: We have about 100+ labels with us, varying in style and grape varietals from every major wine producing region of the world. In addition to that, we have a coravin wine selection for high-end wines. We also make sure to keep reprinting our wine menu to make room for new discoveries from around the world and specially homegrown brands from India.

Winning the Wine Spectator’s Award for Excellence for the 5th time consecutively is not an easy feat. How do you manage to maintain the benchmark you have set for yourself?

Akshay Magar: Our wine menu is dynamic to make sure we keep up with the constantly growing wine industry. The idea is to offer a selection of wines that has an ideal option for every guest visiting the restaurant. We have a wine awareness program for the entire team on a weekly basis where we recreate the WSET training modules for them. I conduct wine training and tasting sessions to make them aware of different wines, styles, and regions. The team in turn makes sure to share their knowledge and recommendations with the guests. I believe it is this immersive wine program along with a diverse wine list that gets us a recognition like the Wine Spectator’s Award for Excellence.

Are there any new exciting projects or initiatives in the pipeline?

Akshay Magar: As part of the wine program at The Table, we curate a special month-long wine menu in collaboration with our vendors. Each limited-edition menu focuses on a different season, region or style and showcases wines from that speciality. Most importantly, we make sure to shine light on lesser known wines from around the world and homegrown wines from India that are unexplored.

Tell us more about your farm-to-table initiative.

Gauri Devidayal: The Table was very much inspired by the Californian style of food, since Jay had spent over 16 years in San Francisco. The farm to table style of cooking, made famous by Alice Waters, is about understanding the source and therefore quality of the ingredients, which really are the star of the dish. Being fortunate to have a farm in Alibaug, which is an hour-long ferry ride from Mumbai, it made perfect sense to grow as much of our own produce as we could, for the restaurant. It also enabled us to take diners across to the farm to understand the provenance of what they were consuming, and the difference in great quality produce and the importance of it in our cuisine. We began The Table Farm in 2012 and today, in 2023, I’m proud to share that we harvested over 1000 kg of produce, which was supplied to our restaurants.

How would you describe your entrepreneurial journey in three words?

Gauri Devidayal: Exciting, nerve-wrecking, and rewarding. For the longer version, you’ll have to read my book about the journey called ‘Diamonds for Breakfast’!

What advice would you give to aspiring restaurateurs looking to make a name for themselves in the industry?

Gauri Devidayal: Don’t worry about making a name. Worry about the product and the experience, and the name will follow. Make sure you have a year of financial runway even if you don’t intend to use it. Do it for the right reasons—and glamour isn’t one of them. Neither is thinking that you can do something that’s already out there, cheaper. Be prepared to give this business your entire life, because that’s what it takes. It sucks everything out of you, so you better love it. A lot.