PEAKLIFE

By Neha Mehrotra

Originating in the 1920s, “cruise” or “pre-spring” collections were initially tailored for affluent clients who favoured winter travel to sunny destinations. These intermediate lines are now showcased between traditional Spring-Summer and Fall-Winter Fashion Weeks, catering to mid-season wardrobe needs.

While cruise collections once targeted a niche market, they have evolved into a pivotal financial pillar for brands, accounting for nearly 50% of annual revenue for some. Presentations have shifted from intimate house salons to exotic locales, captivating the fashion world with their creativity and innovation. The 2025 Cruise shows have captivated audiences by transporting them to breathtaking settings, from the majestic gardens of Drummond Castle to the lively streets of Barcelona and the artistic surroundings of London’s Tate Modern.

1. Max Mara, Venice

Max Mara journeyed to La Serenissima, Venice, to celebrate the city’s rich history and unprecedented show at the Palazzo Ducale. For the first time, a fashion event graced its spectacular salons. Max Mara unveiled its Resort 2025 collection at the historic Piazza San Marco, drawing inspiration from Marco Polo’s travels and the intricate marbles of the Basilica of San Marco. The collection celebrated Venetian heritage with neutral, minimalistic designs that honoured the city’s cultural richness. Venice, a historical nexus of trade between East and West during Marco Polo’s era, inspired pieces featuring nods to Gothic architecture and motifs from Hindu, Zoroastrian, and Chinese traditions.

2. Chanel, Marselliese

Chanel’s creative director, Virginie Viard, transformed Marseille’s iconic rooftop of the Cité Radieuse into a stunning backdrop for the house’s Cruise 2024/2025 runway show. This modern apartment complex, constructed by the legendary Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, now serves as an arts centre, hosting diverse exhibitions and events that enrich the southern seaside town’s creative landscape. Embodying a spirit of freedom, the Chanel Cruise 2024/25 collection melded underwater fantasies with sunlit reflections. Viard’s designs featured intricate embroidery, diving hoods, sequined jackets, and chic swimwear, capturing the essence of both the sea and the sun in this vibrant and imaginative collection.

3. Gucci, London

Sabato De Sarno showcased his debut Cruise collection for Gucci at the Herzog & de Meuron-designed Tanks in London’s Tate Modern. The vast concrete space was transformed with 10,000 plants, symbolising a clash between ‘man and nature.’ This theme of contrasts was evident in the collection, which blended delicacy and toughness. Romantic pussybow blouses were paired with baggy distressed denim, and skirts with intricate floral embroidery were combined with chunky creeper-style horse bit loafers. The collection also featured British-inspired elements like oversized Harrington jackets, Prince of Wales check overcoats, and updated Mackintosh raincoats.

4. Dior, Perthshire ( Scotland)

Dior returned to Scotland for its Cruise 2025 show at Drummond Castle, the historic home of the Drummond family since the 15th century. The event began with the sound of bagpipes as models descended from the main castle into the meticulously maintained terraced gardens set against the wild Perthshire countryside. The collection featured a blend of punk-inspired tartan, sturdy leather boots, mutton-sleeved dresses with bold slogans like ‘nag, hysterical, feisty,’ and structured, armour-like bustier tops. These edgy pieces contrasted with the polished femininity of Chiuri’s Dior, showcased in fitted lace gowns, tulle skirts, and delicate veils adorned with pearl-like drops. The show also paid homage to the past, with photographs from Christian Dior’s 1955 show in Scotland decorating jackets and T-shirts, creating a cinematic montage that connected the present collection with its rich heritage.

5. Louis Vittion, Barcelona

Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest Cruise collection for Louis Vuitton celebrated Spain’s cultural icons like Velázquez, Goya, Luis Buñuel, and Paco Rabanne. Held at Barcelona’s Park Güell, the show highlighted the site’s surreal towers and vibrant mosaics, a UNESCO World Heritage treasure. From sharp tailoring to flamboyant silhouettes, Ghesquière infused his signature style with Spanish flair, exploring contrasts through architectural volumes and fluid draping. The collection featured ready-to-wear pieces, bags, and accessories adorned with embroidery, fringes, and ruffles, introducing new travel-inspired details and enhancing the brand’s allure with a passionate journey of discovery.

6. Balenciaga, Shanghai

Balenciaga unveiled its Spring 2025 men’s and women’s collection at the Museum of Art Pudong, designed by architect Jean Nouvel. This choice not only showcased new trends but also highlighted Shanghai’s emergence as Asia’s fashion capital. The show took place on the museum’s white granite walkway, overlooking the Pudong skyline with Balenciaga-branded towers. The collection played with optical illusions, featuring hourglass skirts, digital-print bodysuits that created depth on flat surfaces, and trompe l’oeil silk dresses. Semi-couture pieces and innovative designs like a cocoon column dress made from travel bags and a feather-like creation from pink plastic bags added to the spectacle. Demna’s new-age tailoring defined oversized blazers with massive shoulders and elongated sleeves, paired with trousers and accessorised with bulky footwear on seven-inch platforms.