By Neha Mehrotra
Fashion and queer culture have always shared a deep and intertwined relationship, with clothing serving as a crucial tool for expressing and defining identity. In the early 1900s, androgynous fashion emerged as a powerful means of expression within the LGBTQ+ community, particularly among women challenging traditional gender roles by adopting men’s clothing. Concurrently, the fashion industry responded to these societal shifts as pioneers like Coco Chanel introduced more masculine-inspired styles tailored for women.
As queer culture began to flourish, the 1980s saw a vibrant fusion of activism and high fashion. Designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler embraced queer aesthetics, introducing bold colours, provocative cuts, and unabashedly sensual designs to the runway. The 1990s witnessed openly gay designers such as Tom Ford at Gucci and Alexander McQueen gain prominence, infusing their collections with a blend of eroticism, sophistication, and subversion.
In recent years, fashion has continued to evolve as a platform for challenging norms and celebrating diversity. Fashion houses like Versace, Adidas, Calvin Klein and more have launched collections specifically celebrating Pride Month, donating proceeds to LGBTQ+ charities and using their influence to foster acceptance and understanding. Below, we have rounded up the brands that have significantly contributed to queer fashion and been a strong voice for the community. Take a look:
1. Jean-Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier has been known for his bold approach to gender fluidity and diversity in fashion. In the late 1970s, he challenged conventional norms by featuring men in skirts and women in tuxedos. His runway shows have celebrated diversity by including models of various genders, sexual orientations and ethnicities. Gaultier’s iconic designs, such as Madonna’s cone bra corsets and collaborations with LGBTQ+ icons like Boy George, further emphasise his support.
His recent Pride Limited Edition fragrances, titled ‘Nothing to Hide’, feature two naked torsos adorned with a single brushstroke, crafted by the iconic New York artist and activist Keith Haring. With fresh citrus notes and yuzu, a flirtation with orange blossom and neroli, and a seductive hint of musk, this fragrance is a true work of art. The naked bottles are tattooed with elements from Keith Haring’s mural, showcasing the beauty of their bodies.
2. Versace
Versace has sporadically embraced LGBTQ+ themes through unique collections and partnerships. Back in 1993, they joined forces with Elton John, crafting a collection that celebrated his bold style and championed diversity. In 2017, they paid homage to Gianni Versace by highlighting vibrant designs with LGBTQ+ influences, reflecting his inclusive vision.
This year, the Italian fashion house has released a capsule collection featuring rainbow colours from the Progress Pride flag, which celebrates diversity in the queer community with Versace’s Barocco print, offering a vibrant package of ready-to-wear and accessories. Highlights include Barocco silk shirts and shorts with rainbow borders, shirts, denim blousons, swimwear, underwear and jewellery. The brand has also announced a donation of 10% of the purchase price of every item in their 2024 Pride collection to the Elton John AIDS Foundation.
3. Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren Corporation and The Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation have a long-standing history of supporting the LGBTQIA+ community with year-round support from the Elton John AIDS Foundation, AIDS Walk NYC, AmfAR, the Hetrick-Martin Institute, and God’s Love We Deliver. The company also stands by the United Nations global standards for business, protecting the rights of the LGBTQIA+ community in the workplace, and has been a proud sponsor of the AIDS Walk New York since 1990. For decades, the iconic Polo shirt has been used as a global symbol to help raise millions of dollars for philanthropic and social impact, including supporting the LGBTQ+ community.
4. Kate Spade New York
Kate Spade New York has consistently incorporated LGBTQ+ themes into its designs with rainbow motifs and vibrant colours, symbolising solidarity with the community. Beyond fashion, the brand advocates for LGBTQ+ rights through partnerships with relevant charities and involvement in Pride events, reinforcing its commitment to fostering a more inclusive society.
For Pride Month 2024, Kate Spade has woven whimsical details into a special capsule collection, launched on May 16. The collection showcases rainbow hues adorning bags, bracelets, charms, bandanas, and more. A portion of the proceeds from this collection will support The Trevor Project, a longstanding partner of the brand dedicated to providing crisis support for LGBTQ+ youths.
5. Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein has unveiled its 2024 “This Is Love” Pride campaign, featuring Cara Delevingne and Jeremy Pope. The campaign showcases Delevingne and Pope in the brand’s 2024 Pride collection, embodying the joyful and confident spirit of Pride. The collection includes underwear and shirts with rainbow-hued Calvin Klein logos, as well as two limited-edition shirts created in collaboration with ILGA World and the Transgender Law Centre. As part of their commitment to the LGBTQIA+ community, Calvin Klein will donate $240,000 in 2024 to NGOs focused on LGBTQIA+ equity and safety. Additionally, from June 3 to July 6, Calvin Klein stores will host a register roundup to donate proceeds to ILGA World.
6. Adidas
Adidas has consistently shown its support for the LGBTQ+ community through a variety of initiatives and collections over the years. Highlights include the launch of its first Pride Pack in 2015, featuring rainbow-accented sneakers, in 2020, Adidas introduced an eco-friendly Pride collection, and in 2021, it continued with bold, rainbow-themed designs. The brand has also contributed to the community by sponsoring global Pride events in cities such as New York, Berlin, and London.
This year, Adidas has unveiled its “Love Unites” range, featuring apparel, accessories, and footwear. The sports brand collaborated with drag superstar Pabllo Vittar to co-design the collection, which includes classic Adidas silhouettes infused with Vittar’s signature on-stage style. The new Pride campaign also features LGBTQ+ athletes, such as British diver Tom Daley and WNBA star Layshia Clarendon. Additionally, Adidas is furthering its partnership with Athlete Ally, an organisation dedicated to ending homophobia and transphobia in sports.
