By Neha Mehrotra
With the surge of affordable, highly accurate quartz watches in the 1970s, the majority of the traditional watchmaking industry—especially in Switzerland—struggled to keep pace, resulting in a severe decline in production, sales, and the number of watchmaking companies. But, four decades on from what was known as the quartz crisis, it feels like we’re living in the golden age of mechanical watches once again.
It’s not just the fact that the charm of mechanical timepieces is at an all-time high, but there has been an incredible amount of historic Swiss watch brands being resurrected. The return of Favre Leuba—one of the oldest Swiss Watch brands—was recently announced to coincide with Geneva Watch Days 2024, is a clear reminder of this revival.
With roots stretching back to 1737, the brand has always been a beacon of heritage in the watchmaking world. Now, under the leadership of Patrik Hoffmann and a team of seasoned experts, Favre Leuba is stepping boldly into a new era with the debut of 22 new references across three distinct collections.
The Old Days
Favre Leuba’s storied history, stretching back to its founding in 1737, is a tale of resilience and innovation. As one of Switzerland’s oldest watch brands, Favre Leuba has consistently pushed the boundaries of horological excellence. Among its many contributions to the world of watches was the Bivouac, the world’s first wristwatch equipped with an altimeter and barometer. This was followed by the Bathy in 1968, a dive watch that could measure depths, showcasing the brand’s commitment to functionality and adventure. However, Favre Leuba has endured a choppy history in recent years—it fell victim to the 1970s quartz crisis and ever since then, the brand has gone through a variety of owners.
Moving Towards a Bigger and Better Revival
Under the guidance of Patrik Hoffman, Favre Leuba is unveiling three exciting new collections at Geneva Watch Days: the Deep Blue, the Sea Sky, and the Chief. Each collection perfectly showcases the brand’s mastery across diverse terrains—sea, sky, and land.
For those with a penchant for land adventures, the Chief collection is a throwback to the 1970s, featuring striking steel cushion-shaped cases. It offers both a classic three-hander with a date function and a sleek two-counter chronograph, available in various colours and paired with either an integrated steel bracelet or a selection of straps.
The Deep Blue range celebrates Favre Leuba’s dive watch heritage with two standout models: the Deep Blue Revival and the Deep Blue Renaissance. These watches not only honour the brand’s legacy, but also represent its modern resurgence in dive watchmaking.
And then there’s the Sea Sky Chronograph, a true testament to Swiss precision. With its 40mm 316L stainless steel case, a stylish blend of polished and brushed finishes, and a movement that boasts a 60-hour power reserve, it’s a masterpiece. The sapphire case back reveals an exquisitely decorated movement with a gold-plated oscillating weight, while the double-domed sapphire crystal, unidirectional black ceramic bezel, and a choice of dials in black, blue, or sunburst brown make it both functional and elegant. Enhanced with tachymeter and telemeter scales, this piece beautifully marries sporty charm with practical utility.
While it’s just the beginning—Favre Leuba is already working on a new collection of complicated watches that pays tribute to the brand’s deep and rich history.
Cover Credits : Favre Leuba
