The 28th edition of SIHH brings forth some of the amazing complications and Avant grade timepieces from the finest horology houses.
Bringing the new Innovative projects and design, and inventions from the Horology world, SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva, is back. With 35 exhibitors for 2019 edition, SIHH showcases some of the new finest timepieces and treasures.
Panerai – Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry edition
The Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry edition is a professional diver’s watch, water-resistant to a depth of about 300 metres (30 bar) and fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel, which accurately displays the duration of the dive. The dial is clearly legible under all lighting conditions and in complete darkness, thanks to the luminous white markers, which stand out strongly against the shark grey, textured background. The Panerai Submersible Chrono is fitted with a P.9100 automatic calibre with a power reserve of three days. It is also a precision chronograph, with fly-back function and the device for zeroing the seconds hand to enable perfect synchronisation with a reference signal. The Panerai Submersible Chrono is dedicated to Guillaume Néry, twice a world champion for weight free-diving world records. Engraved on the screw back are the champion’s signature and the depths of his final awe-inspiring record: 126 metres, achieved with a single breath.
IWC – “Petit Prince” Pilot Collection
IWC Schaffhausen will be showcasing its Pilot’s Watches at the heart of the SIHH “Le Petit Prince” special editions. The special collection will include the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince”, a limited edition to 10 watches. These timepieces are characterised by their distinctive midnight blue dials and have been a highly regarded addition to the Pilot’s Watch collections since 2013. This is the first time IWC has produced a watch with hard gold, a special new version of red gold. The IWC-manufactured calibre 94805 combines a constant-force tourbillon with a perpetual moon phase display, which takes 577.5 years to require adjustment by one day. The “Petit Prince” stands on the moon and the two barrels store enough power for 96 hours. A display notifies the wearer of the remaining power reserve. The other watches to the collection include new Spitfire line, a new TOP GUN line.
Audemars Piguet – Camouflage Royal Oak Offshore Collection
Audemars Piguet recently added new watch to the Royal Oak Offshore collection. This includes three new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs in camouflage colours to be officially launched at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January 2019. Since its first launch, the Royal Oak Offshore has always been associated with new materials. The tradition continues this year with these new 44mm chronographs, which combine ceramic bezel, push pieces and screw-locked crown, Méga-Tapisserie dial and robust rubber straps. While the blue and green ceramic models feature a stainless-steel case, the brown ceramic model – a first for Audemars Piguet – is endowed with a pink gold case that nicely sets off the bezel. The strap comes in “Camouflage” rubber strap with stainless steel pin buckle and additional rubber straps in blue, khaki green and brown and water-resistant to 100 m and stands for 50 h power reserve.
Jaeger-Lecoultre- Rendez-Vous Moon- Jaeger-Lecoultre’s Métiers Rares®
In both its pink gold and steel versions, the Rendez-Vous Moon watch immerses the wearer at the heart of its new, even more feminine moon phase. The silvered guilloché dial, the hands, the collection’s signature floral numerals, and the chatons highlight the hours to reveal discreet and sophisticated elegance. Its automatic movement, the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 925A, provides a 40-hour power reserve. Its interchangeable bracelets make this a chic, timeless model suited to accompanying women anywhere with unfailing accuracy. The new Rendez-Vous Moon watch presents an entirely reworked moon phase that showcases the extensive expertise of the Grande Maison’s Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares®”. In a disc at 6 o’clock, a delicately polished moon cycles through its phases against a lacquered blue starry sky, enhanced to stunning effect by the sea of clouds that carry it. When full, the round and radiant moon serves as a light-hearted reminder that the circle still reigns supreme as the predominant geometric shape in the Rendez-Vous collection.
Baume & Mercier – Clifton Baumatic™
The Clifton Baumatic™ from Baume & Mercier is the essential accessory for men with a passion for style and sophistication. The immaculate white dial offers an understated, easy-to-read display. It features slender riveted hour-markers, slim lancet hands, and an oversized date aperture at 3 o’clock. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the anthracite gray minute track follows the ideally proportioned curves of the 40 mm two-tone polished/satin-finished case. Water-resistant to 50 meters, the timepiece has a transparent case back that reveals the new Baumatic™ BM12-1975A calibre, the first mechanical self-winding movement developed in-house, in collaboration with the Richemont group. The Clifton Baumatic™ achieves a remarkable accuracy during the five days of its power reserve and boasts resistance to magnetic fields that is 25 times greater than the current ISO standard.
Cartier – Santos De Cartier Chronograph
Dedicated to the daring legacy of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the collection of New Santos de Cartier Collections a maestro timepiece to conquer the skies, lift one’s spirits and fight the force of gravity.
Made to measure records, the new Cartier chronograph takes this heritage into the 21st century. Always attentive to elegance and ergonomics, Cartier gave it a single start/stop push button, visible at 9 o’clock, with the reset function being directly integrated into the crown. This lighter design naturally leads to lighter movements.The piece is fitted with the 1904-CH MC Cartier Manufacture movement, which distils the chronograph’s ingenious guidance and coordination systems – column wheel, vertical clutch, and linear reset hammer – while demonstrating superb craftsmanship.
Like the Santos de Cartier collection as a whole, the bracelets and straps offer ultimate practicality. Available in steel, alligator leather or rubber, all versions can be interchanged thanks to the patented QuickSwitch system, the invisible mechanism which seamlessly blends into the architecture of the case. Meanwhile the metal bracelet can be adjusted to the nearest link thanks to its patented tool-free SmartLink size adjustment system.
Vacheron Constantin- Tourbillon in Overseas Collection
Overseas, the collection embodying two cherished Vacheron Constantin themes – travel and openness to the world – welcomes its first ever model powered by a self-winding tourbillon movement. Presented with a stainless-steel case, this watch setting a crowning touch to the collection features sleek aesthetics and an interchangeable bracelet/straps concept endowing it with a variety of styles.Through the dynamic and harmonious lines of its stainless-steel case, its characteristic six-sided bezel as well as its emblematic blue dial, the Overseas dial combines power with elegance, and distinction with wide new horizons.
In addition to the elegance of an open worked carriage shaped like the Manufacture’s Maltese Cross emblem, the ultra-thin 188-part Calibre 2160 – first presented in 2018 and measuring just 5.65 mm thick – opts for a 22K gold peripheral rotor. This choice ensures a clear view of the mechanism beating at the stately frequency of 2.5 Hz, visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback. It also reveals the exceptional level of traditional finishing. The bar of the tourbillon carriage is entirely handbevelled, a task requiring around 12 hours for this component alone. The new Overseas Tourbillon features central hours and minutes, a tourbillon with seconds indication at 6 o’clock, displayed on a blue-lacquered sunburst satin-finished dial enlivened by hands and hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova®.
Ulysse Nardin- Freak X
Launching the new year in style, Ulysse Nardin is pleased to introduce the” X Factor” in watchmaking. The FREAK X, the little cousin of its” Freak antecedents”, stands out as the entry point into the FREAK collection. Though many of the same aesthetic and functional elements are in place, it pushes out into uncharted territory. The sizing is tighter – 43mm instead of 45mm – but it is easier to read and operate. It has a crown for time correction, which breaks with one of the most iconic aspects of the crown-less FREAK VISION or FREAK OUT models, which correct time by the bezel. The “baguette” movement is still a carousel, turning once on itself every hour to indicate the time. It is simpler, bolder, and has fewer wheels. It has no dial and no hands – the central bridge acts as a minute hand and one of the wheels indicates the hours.
Inside and clearly visible beats one of the FREAK VISION’s most outstanding innovations: a super-light balance wheel in silicium, extra-wide, with nickel flyweights and stabilizing micro-blades. The movement itself, the new UN-230, is a fusion of the manufacture calibers UN-118 and FREAK VISION UN-250. The case, nicely rounded with curved lines, is wholly new, and seriously transformative. The new FREAK X is available in titanium, rose gold, black DLC or in Carbonium ®. It is very competitively priced with a start price version at 21’000 USD. It demonstrates the brand’s commitment to expanding and enriching its collections by pushing watchmaking Xper-tise to the X degree. To the intrepid Ulysses of the modern world, it is a clarion call to adventure.
Roger Dubuis- Excalibur One-Off
Inspired by partners Lamborghini Squadra Corse and Pirelli, the highly complicated Excalibur One-Off timepiece is inspired by the recently unveiled Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar. The futuristic Excalibur One-off timepiece features a design at the crossroads of modern art and innovative architecture and a calibre worthy of the most complex engine. The Excalibur One-off timepiece is powered by the third calibre to be produced within the framework of this iconic three-way partnership in the form of the purpose-built RD106SQ movement, mechanical double flying tourbillon inclined90°. Built like a supercar engine, it emulates the V-shape geometry of the Lamborghini engines.A master of the complexity of regulating organs in mechanical movements in this timepiece, Roger Dubuis plays with three dimensions (thus positioning each piece on a different level and crossing it over the others) by inclining the heart of the watch. Directly derived from the gravity compensation concept embodied by the tourbillon, the disruptive double flying tourbillon is assembled on two planes, creating a 90° angle between them, and linked with a differential.
At 12 o’clock the Excalibur One-off timepiece features a double disc jumping hour with one hand for the minutes and a jumping hours counter (like on a Lamborghini, in which a single hand gives the number of revolutions and a counter shows the speed). The movement is framed by two sapphire components symbolizing the rev counters of a car.
Bovet- Fleurier Amadéo
This all-new caliber is housed in a 46.30 mm diameter Fleurier Amadéo convertible case. A true icon of the Maison, the Amadéo system transforms the timepiece into a reversible wristwatch, a pocket watch, or a table clock without the use of any tools. Additionally, the Virtuoso IX case is equipped with a fascinating new mechanism, allowing the case back to be opened simply by applying pressure to the crown. The proven ergonomics of the Fleurier case make this timepiece suited for everyday wear. In the same vein, its features and complications will always be of use to the collector, both over time and throughout his travels. The dial is meticulously organized for clarity yet exudes a unique style. Only the minute hand is centered on the dial. The hour hand is offset at 2 o’clock, and a second-hour hand, the 24- hour hand, displays a second timezone at 10 o’clock. Both local time and the secondary time zone thus share the minute hand. A corresponding indicator displays the second time zone’s city name.
Two lateral correctors make adjusting and selecting a time zone easy, all while considering the differences between daylight savings time and standard time. Logically, a big date indication is included with these complications, positioned on the right side of the dial. Its aperture opens wide without separating the tens from the units. The ingenuity of the Maison’s watchmakers allows the date to be displayed as big as possible while minimizing the space required for its mechanism. The power reserve indicator sits at 8 o’clock, balancing the big date indicator and notifying the wearer at a glance just how much of the 10-day power supply remains.
Girard Perregaux- Cosmos
This is the Haute Horlogerie masterpiece presented by Girard-Perregaux in 2019. A new dialogue between earth and sky, between matter and space, between the visible and the invisible. Two complete globes–celestial and terrestrial –serve to mirror a fusional moment that we experience the Cosmos.Revealing an unknown world, in turn, the signs of the zodiac pass through this miniature firmament, as the earth rotates daily. Like the sky, the watch has two faces: day and night. Loyal to the refinement characterising the aesthete of the invisible, Cosmos reveals finishes of a previously unknown beauty. The centrepiece of the “Earth to Sky” theme, this watch with tourbillon, sky chart and world time complications is composed of mechanical particles and poetic paradoxes. Inside, setting Cosmos into orbit, beats brand-new Manufacture Calibre GP09320-1098. In the absence of a crown, the time and various indications are manually adjusted on the back of this stellar creation. The Cosmos case comes with its 48 mm diameter is a world in itself, carved from bead-blasted titanium, it delimits its universe. Its sapphire crystal is a glassbox, a curved chimney-type glass acting like an astronomical telescope.
Greubel Forsey- Balancier Contemporain
In creating the Balancier Contemporain, a white gold 33-piece limited edition, Greubel Forsey imagined providing a particularly compact showcase for its exclusive balance-wheel system.
This highly original creation is distinguished by its 39.6 mm diameter, a first from Greubel Forsey which generally builds larger timepieces. The innovative balance wheel is distinguished by its large12.6 mm diameter ensuring optimal timekeeping stability. To enable fine adjustment of its moment of inertia, the balance rim is fitted with six goldmean-time screws, recessed in order to guarantee optimal aerodynamics by reducing air friction. This results in enhanced chronometric performance and facilitates adjusting by the watchmaker. This exclusive regulating organ was initially launched in a limited edition named ‘Balancier’, within GreubelForsey’siconic asymmetrical case in a white gold 43.5 mm diameter version measuring 13.94 mm high. The manual-winding calibre comprises 255 components, all crafted and finished in the Greubel Forsey spirit of the finest workmanship. It is endowed with a 72-hour power reserve ensuring chronometric performance by means of two series-coupled fast-rotating barrels– one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension. The movement is also equipped with a crown-activated ‘stop balance’ system enabling time setting to the nearest second.
Parmigiani Fleurier- Toric Chronometre
Parmigiani Fleurier has revisited the aesthetics of the first watch designed by its founder, introducing a new dial. The slate-coloured dial features a captivating guilloché decoration that evokes the spiral structure of a pine cone – one of the innumerable examples of the Golden Ratio found in the natural world. The Toric Chronomètre Slate is powered by the COSC-certified PF441 proprietary calibre. The movement meets exacting standards in terms of accuracy. The word “Chronometer”, from the Greek “time measurement”, provides a fitting name for the piece. The Chronometre is attached with guilloche dial and a bezel features a hand-knurled design. The COSC-certified calibre PF441 is a self-winding mechanical movement. Its two series-coupled barrels ensure excellent rate regularity and a power reserve of 55 hours. Its balance oscillates at a frequency of 28,000 vibrations per hour and its accuracy is COSC-certified. Comprising 220 components, this movement is decorated to the highest Haute Horlogerie standards with superbly bevelled and circular-grained main plate and bridges featuring Côtes de Genève decoration. Its gold oscillating weight is delicately engraved and stamped with the initials PF.
Hermes – Arceau L’heure
An offbeat expression of a classic horological complication, the Arceau L’heure de la lune watch offers an original interpretation of Hermès watchmaking expertise. Framed by a white gold case, the mechanics adopt a light, barely-there role. Meteorite or aventurine inlaid with mother-of-pearl form a cosmos in which satellite dials float above hemispherical moons. These mischievous displays have swapped cardinal points, with the south above and the north below. The horse, representing the origins of Hermès, gallops elegantly into the world of dreams. At 12 o’clock, the moon is adorned by a Pegasus created by the “dreamer-designer” Dimitri Rybaltchenko. On the other side, at 6 o’clock, the view of the moon from the northern hemisphere provides a realistic depiction of its surface. The mobile counters displaying the time and date turn weightlessly to reveal the moon discs, while maintaining their horizontal orientation. This contemporary dance is choreographed by a module exclusively developed for Hermès and for which a patent has been filed. With a total thickness of just 4.2mm, its 117 polished and bead-blasted components are incorporated within the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement: a technical challenge designed to preserve the slenderness of the overall mobile chassis, which sweeps around the dial in 59 days. This Haute Horlogerie timepiece is issued in two 100-piece limited editions and fitted with a matt alligator strap in graphite grey or abyss blue.
Mont Blanc – Geosphere
Inspired by the Spirit of Mountain Exploration, the 1858 Product Line gets closer to Nature with Bronze Cases, brand-new Khaki-Green dials, matching coloured “Nato” straps and is fixed with highly functional in-house complications. For legibility and design, the khaki-green dials contrast with historical luminescent cathedral-shaped hands with a “cloisonné” design that has been slightly domed for one of the finest finishes. Other details include beige SuperLumiNova*-coated Arabic numerals, a railway minutes track and the original Montblanc logo from the 1930s era with its historical font and emblem of the Mont Blanc Mountain. In order to guarantee the performance of the product line, all the Montblanc 1858 models undergo over 500 hours of simulated wear, with specific testing and controls under extreme conditions. Geosphere is also water-resistant to 100 metres ensuring performance in all environments. Thanks to this artisanal know-how, the “NATO” straps are refined, robust, durable and very comfortable on the wrist.
Richard Mille – RM 07-03 Myrtille et Litchi
Richard Mille has bitten into a juicy new realm of graphic, emotional and chromatic expression. The Richard Mille Bonbon Collection comprises 10 models, each produced in an edition of 30 pieces. Together, they articulate a sweet and tangy new vision of watchmaking. Composed of candies, pastries and fruit, these 10 horological treats once again subvert existing conventions, habits and expectations.
‘The idea was to revisit the existing collections RM 07-03, while playing with colour. Along with six delectable flavours in the fruit line, Blueberry and Litchi (RM 07-03 Myrtille et Litchi) is a homage to the very concept of sweet temptation. In addition to colour-gradient cases made of Carbon TPT® combined with Quartz TPT® of a different hue for each model is an all-new turquoise colour. Painted in acrylics and lacquered by hand, the 3,000 miniature sculptures integrated into these compositions stand out from the dials, turning each one into a sachet full of tiny candies. To further enhance their realism, a ‘sugarcoating’ effect was achieved using powdered enamel and the fine sand employed in hourglasses. Tart jelly ribbons, twisty lollipops, candy citrus segments, gumdrops and other surprises are positioned on plates of grade 5 titanium that is machined and skeletonised like horological components.
Lange & Söhne – LANGE 1
The LANGE 1 marks the kick-off of the “25th Anniversary” series: it has been crafted virtually unchanged since 1994. Its movement is what reflects its technical evolution. The manually wound calibre L121.1 introduced in 2015 includes a precisely jumping outsize date display and a freely oscillating Lange balance spring. Paired with a large cam-poised balance, it assures superb rate accuracy. The opulently finished movement – as was the case with the first LANGE 1 calibre L901.0 – features a twin mainspring barrel with a power reserve of 72 hours as well as typical Lange quality hallmarks. Noteworthy elements are the three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, eight screwed gold chatons, and the hand-engraved balance cock.
It exhibits a very special engraving: the outsize date with a “25” that symbolises the 25th anniversary. The manually executed lines of the new engraving pattern are blued for the first time and thus stand out with particularly rich contrast. The LANGE 1 “25th Anniversary”, limited to 250 watches, has another prominent feature: the engraved hinged cuvette crafted from solid white gold. The engraving depicts the Lange headquarters that date back to 1873, the names of Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein, and a relief engraving of the inscription “25 YEARS LANGE 1”.
Piaget – Altiplano Tourbillon
Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon comes with an ultra-thin tourbillon watch in white gold and diamonds. Fitted with a Lapis lazuli marquetry dial with 41 mm case in 18K white gold set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 2.51 ct) and 266 brilliant-cut diamonds. The timepiece is fitted with dark blue alligator-skin strap and gem-set folding clasp. Developed to fit perfectly with the legendary delicacy of the Altiplano, the Manufacture Piaget 670P ultra-thin hand-wound movement is only 4.6 mm thick. This luxury watch in white gold, limited to eight timepieces, dazzles with baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds set on the case and folding clasp. Combining technical know-how and jewellery expertise, this Altiplano High Jewellery tourbillon watch enhances Piaget’s iconic ultra-thin piece with a dazzling gem-setting and the finest Artistic Crafts. Crafted from lapis lazuli marquetry by stone sculptor and master craftsman Hervé Obligi, the dial shimmers with vibrant shades of blue. A Piaget signature, the off-centre hours-minutes counter and the tourbillon cage form a figure of eight, the symbol of eternity.